Preservatives in Body Scrubs.

Preservatives in Body Scrubs: A Necessary Ingredient or Consumer-Driven Choice?

In the natural skincare formulation world, few topics spark as much debate as the use—or omission—of preservatives in products like body scrubs. While preservatives play a vital role in ensuring microbial safety in many cosmetic formulations, the necessity of their inclusion in certain anhydrous (water-free) products remains a gray area. At WapoBeauty, our philosophy centers on educating and empowering consumers, making them responsible stewards of their skincare products through conscious use and clear, transparent guidance.

The Anhydrous Body Scrub Dilemma

Body scrubs made exclusively with oils, butters, salts, or sugars—without any water—are technically anhydrous. This type of formula, when manufactured and used correctly, does not support microbial growth on its own, and therefore does not legally require a preservative. However, once water is introduced into the jar—typically through use in the shower or with wet hands—microbial contamination becomes a risk.

This is where the dilemma lies: Should formulators add a preservative just in case, or can educated consumers safely use the product with precautionary guidelines?

At WapoBeauty, we choose the latter—placing trust in the customer while also fulfilling our regulatory obligations and commitment to product safety.

Responsible Consumer Use: A Label-Led Solution

Our approach includes the use of clear, instructional labeling, such as:

Caution: Use only with dry hands. Do not introduce water into the container. Store in a cool, dry place.

By offering precise usage instructions, we avoid the unnecessary use of preservatives that might compromise the “clean” or “natural” appeal of the product. This aligns with both sustainability goals and the desire for minimalist formulations with fewer synthetic ingredients.

When Are Preservatives Non-Negotiable?

Preservatives are mandatory in cosmetic products that contain water or are likely to be exposed to it. These include:

  • Creams and lotions (oil + water emulsions)
  • Toners and mists (aqueous formulas)
  • Shampoos and conditioners
  • Cleansers and micellar waters
  • Gel-based serums
  • Masks that contain water or hydrosols

These products are ideal environments for microbial growth, particularly bacteria, yeast, and mold. Without a preservative system, such formulas pose serious health risks and quickly become unstable.

What Do the Regulations Say?

EU Cosmetic Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009

  • The EU does not require preservatives in every cosmetic product, but manufacturers must ensure product safety throughout the shelf life.
  • If a preservative is used, it must be on the approved list in Annex V of the Regulation.
  • The product must undergo a Cosmetic Product Safety Assessment (CPSR), which includes microbiological stability evaluation.

ISO 29621:2017

“Guidelines for the Risk Assessment and Identification of Microbiologically Low-Risk Products”

This international standard supports formulators by identifying low-risk product categories that may not need preservatives, including:

  • Anhydrous products (e.g., lip balms, oil-based scrubs)
  • Products with extreme pH (<3 or >10)
  • Alcohol-based formulas (>20% alcohol)

However, even for low-risk products, ISO recommends ensuring:

  • Proper packaging to avoid contamination
  • Consumer education
  • Stability testing to confirm low water activity

Balancing Safety, Simplicity, and Education

Preservatives are not the enemy. They are essential for protecting consumers from potential harm in the vast majority of cosmetic products. But in formulas where water is absent and risk is low, we believe that empowering the consumer—through informed usage and responsible labeling—is a smarter, more sustainable choice.

This approach avoids unnecessary additives, reduces potential skin sensitivities, and respects the integrity of truly natural skincare. It also fosters a relationship of trust and responsibility between the brand and the user.

Would you use a body scrub without a preservative? Please comment below

Cheers,

La Mayca x

 

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