If you’ve ever wondered how water and oil stay perfectly blended in your skincare products, the answer is emulsifiers. In natural skincare formulation, choosing the right emulsifier is key to achieving a stable, smooth, and skin-loving cream or lotion.
Let’s explore the best natural emulsifiers approved by Ecocert and COSMOS that you can use to make professional-quality emulsions — whether you’re creating light face lotions or rich body creams.
(Require heating both oil and water phases to around 70–75 °C)
These emulsifiers create stable and elegant textures and are ideal for professional-grade creams and body products.
| INCI Name | Trade Name Example | Type | Recommended Use Level | Key Features |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cetearyl Olivate & Sorbitan Olivate | Olivem 1000 | O/W | 3–8 % | Silky and velvety finish, very popular, non-greasy, pH 5–7.5 |
| Glyceryl Stearate & Cetearyl Alcohol & Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate | Montanov 68 / 68 MB | O/W | 3–5 % | Creates rich, creamy textures for body products |
| Cetearyl Alcohol & Glucoside | Montanov 202 | O/W | 2–4 % | Lightweight, stable in a wide pH range, perfect for lotions |
| Cetearyl Glucoside & Cetearyl Alcohol | Emulsan II / NatraGem EW | O/W | 3–6 % | Smooth, soft skin feel and easy to work with |
| Glyceryl Stearate Citrate | Dermofeel GSC | O/W | 2–5 % | Excellent for sensitive skin, EcoCert approved |
| Sucrose Stearate / Sucrose Laurate | Sucrose Esters | O/W | 1–6 % | Creates mild, silky emulsions for facial creams |
| Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate & Cetearyl Alcohol | Olivem 900 / Plantasens HE20 | W/O | 3–6 % | Great for rich, water-resistant W/O creams |
| Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate/Stearate | Dermofeel PGS | O/W | 2–5 % | Produces stable, soft-touch emulsions |
(Ideal for heat-sensitive ingredients and faster production)
Cold-process emulsifiers save time and preserve the nutrients of fragile ingredients like vitamins and essential oils.
| INCI Name | Trade Name Example | Type | Usage % | Key Features |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lecithin (Soy / Sunflower) | — | O/W or W/O | 1–5 % | Natural phospholipid, conditioning, often needs a co-emulsifier |
| Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate / Oleate / Caprate | NatraGem S150 | O/W | 2–4 % | Lightweight, biodegradable, ideal for serums and lotions |
| Coco-Glucoside & Glyceryl Oleate | Lamesoft PO65 | O/W | 2–5 % | Gentle, biodegradable, great for cleansing milks |
| Cetearyl Wheat Straw Glycosides & Cetearyl Alcohol | Xyliance | O/W | 2–5 % | Can be used hot or cold; silky texture, stable |
| Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate | — | O/W | 1–4 % | Perfect for sprayable and very light emulsions |
These support your main emulsifier to improve texture, stability, and skin feel.
| INCI Name | Function |
|---|---|
| Cetearyl Alcohol | Thickener and stabiliser; adds body |
| Cetyl Alcohol | Soft, silky finish |
| Behenyl Alcohol | Non-greasy stabiliser for rich creams |
| Xanthan Gum / Sclerotium Gum / Acacia Gum | Natural thickeners that prevent separation |
| Glyceryl Caprylate | Co-emulsifier with antimicrobial properties |
| Desired Texture | Recommended System |
|---|---|
| Light Face Lotion | Montanov 202 + Cetyl Alcohol (+ Xanthan Gum) |
| Nourishing Face Cream | Olivem 1000 + Cetearyl Alcohol |
| Rich Body Cream / Butter | Montanov 68 + Behenyl Alcohol |
| Minimalist Sensitive Formula | Glyceryl Stearate Citrate + Xanthan Gum |
| Cold-Process Lotion | Xyliance + Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate + Xanthan Gum |
Natural emulsifiers not only create stable and luxurious skincare products, they also align your formulations with eco-certified and skin-friendly standards. Whether you prefer the creamy comfort of Montanov 68 or the light elegance of Olivem 1000, there’s a natural emulsifier suited for every formula.
With practice and experimentation, you’ll master the art of crafting creams and lotions that look, feel, and perform like professional skincare — all naturally 🌿
© WapoBeauty – All Rights Reserved – Dublin & Málaga
Written by Mayca Fernandez, Cosmetic Formulator & Educator