Recently I have had some enquiries about how to reduce the horrible annoying little bags under the eyes. Puffiness after you wake up is definitely something not desirable. A good eye contour cream or serum gel can make a difference however it won’t be the only factor to improve their appearance . What I say improve I mean by reducing the volume of the eye bag itself and bring a bit of brightness and firmness to the under eye area.
I have some eye bags myself, bigger in my left eye for some reason. I saw my mother, my auntie and most of my mother side of family suffering from eye bags as well as dropping lids. Not sure what is worse. It seems to that all the tiredness, sleepless nights when having babies, worries, life stress over the years manifest together under and around the eyes. Salty food can play a part too as a cause for fluid retention.
As I am working in different formulas trying some of the top actives that perform better in eye products . I thought to share what I found in my research of ingredients accessible to small scale skincare formulators.
Certainly one of the most popular actives in eye contour is caffeine but something else is needed when eye bags are significant.
Here are the ingredients can be promising for a successful eye bag formula . Keep in mind that actives can be water or oil soluble , therefore add them in the right phase of the emulsion and look for temperature tolerance.
Another option is making an aqueous product gel-like instead of an emulsion.
Caffeine – stimulates the degradation of fats. Popular active in anti-cellulitis and slimming products.
Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola)-In Ayurveda, Gotu Kola is called the ‘varnaya herb,’ which means skin-lightening herb. It helps reduce the melanin levels in the skin, promoting the formation of newer skin. Its regular application helps brighten and lighten the dark spots in the skin to give a bright, radiant texture. Powerful anti photo-aging active plant and stimulates the production of collagen. Formulation tip: it has nice herbal smell that I add to my formulations to mask the odd smell of some preservatives or other ingredients in the formula.
Hyaluronic acid– super favorite humectant of all . A must have ingredient in any skincare formula. Super hydrating , quenching skin benefits. Remember there are various molecular weight for different purposes and structural functions in the formula
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)– Well-known anti-inflammatory skincare active. Also reduce redness and hyperpigmentation.
Fraxinus Excelsior Bark Extract– It serves as a skin conditioning agent, which means it helps to maintain and improve the skin’s appearance and texture
Terminalia arjuna– It has 4 active mechanisms that allow skin to recover firmness and elasticity, fighting the red-blue pigmentation caused by dark circles under the eyes. It also helps to reduce the visible blood vessels in the eye-contour area.
Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum- ( not an actual active ) natural ingredient that is used as a thickening ingredient in cosmetic and personal care formulations. It is also known by the name Peruvian carob or tara gum. This ingredient possesses the ability to give a smooth and non-sticky appearance to the formulation that it is added in.
Green tea extract- helps diminish the signs of aging, calms irritation, evens out discoloration, diminishes the appearance of cellulite, soothes redness and swelling, repairs damage, exfoliates, decreases the appearance and occurrence of blackheads, eliminates dead skin, dirt, bacteria
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 – an amino peptide that reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles effectively.
Heterotheca inuloides flower extract (Mexican arnica extract ) a natural botanical extract obtained from arnica mexicana flowers, which can be used in formulation of soothing and regenerating care for dry and mature skin, hair repair care or eye contour products. The regenerating properties of these flowers stem from its high flavonoids’ concentration, which stimulates the skin repair process. These flavonoids molecules reduce and relieve inflammation, offering soothing properties that are ideal for calming irritation. They also bring an antioxidant activity.
Coffee arabica seed extract – skin decongestant benefits
Acmella oleracea extract– Acmella extract is an incredible natural alternative to botox that can help relax facial muscles, reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, prevent hyperpigmentation, support cell rejuvenation and regeneration, and overall provide a more youthful complexion.
Spilanthes acmella flower/leaf/stem extract – firming effects extracts from paracress plant that I have used in day face treatments formula in many occasions and it works wonderfully
Astragalus membranaceus root extract– This root is known to have anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties and has also been shown to be possibly effective for skin lightening. It can be added to formulation for personal care products such as skin lightening products, soothing lotions, acne treatments or other types of products.
Coenzyme Q10 – Ubiquinone . Powerful lipid-soluble antioxidant that I love to include in many of my creations. Read here an interesting study about its efficacy in skincare products and health
As a complementary treatment to the eye product you apply, I suggest to use a guasha and do a massage before applying the product. It will help to depuff the eye area immensely . Ice water bath is also an option if you like a nice wake -up feeling in the morning as it helps to activate the micro circulation around the eye with natural skin tightening effects as well. Win-win situation!
La Mayca x